SIZE & PLACEMENT GUIDE

Choose the right scale. Drill once.

A complete guide to cabinet hardware measurements, pull sizing, placement and pre-drill decisions for replacement projects and new cabinetry.

North American projects often pair inch-based cabinet drawings with metric hardware. Use inch equivalents to understand scale, but specify and drill from the exact millimeter dimensions.

C-C DETERMINES TWO-HOLE FIT

96–416 MM C-C OPTIONS

25 MM STANDARD SCREWS INCLUDED

MEASUREMENTS

Four dimensions prevent most ordering mistakes.

Center-to-center determines whether a two-hole pull fits. Overall length, projection and base footprint determine how it looks, feels and clears the cabinetry.

READ THE DRAWING

C-C is not overall length.

Measure between the centers of the mounting holes—not from edge to edge. Then review the complete product dimensions before ordering or drilling.

Projection is measured separately from the cabinet face to the furthest point of the hardware.

Front-view cabinet pull diagram showing center-to-center, overall length and two mounting bases CENTER-TO-CENTER · C-C OVERALL LENGTH MOUNTING HOLE BASE FOOTPRINT

CENTER-TO-CENTER · C-C

The fit measurement for a two-hole pull.

Center-to-center is the straight-line distance from the center of one mounting hole to the center of the other. If existing holes will be reused, the replacement pull must match that measurement exactly.

A one-hole knob or T-Bar has no center-to-center dimension. Its visible diameter, width, projection and base footprint still affect scale and coverage.

COMPLETE DIMENSIONS

Check what the C-C number leaves out.

Overall length is the full end-to-end length. Projection is how far the hardware stands from the cabinet face. Base footprint is the area touching the front. Panel thickness determines whether the supplied screw length is suitable.

Also check hand clearance, adjacent doors, walls, trim, countertops, appliance gaskets and the travel path of every moving front.

CURRENT SIZE LANGUAGE

Metric hardware, translated for an inch-based project.

OBJECT & TONE product options are specified in millimeters. Inch equivalents below are approximate planning references, not substitute drilling dimensions.

ACTIVE ASSORTMENT · SEPTEMBER 2026

A concise range with deliberate steps.

Current two-hole cabinet pulls are offered, depending on design, in 96, 128, 160, 192 and 224 mm C-C. Current long pulls are offered in 320 and 416 mm C-C. Selected knob designs are offered in 14, 20, 28 or 35 mm visible sizes; other one-hole knobs and T-Bars have a single size.

Not every design is available in every size. Confirm the selected product and variant before building a hardware schedule.

APPROXIMATE CONVERSIONS

Use inches to understand scale—not to drill.

96 mm ≈ 3.78 in · 128 mm ≈ 5.04 in · 160 mm ≈ 6.30 in · 192 mm ≈ 7.56 in · 224 mm ≈ 8.82 in · 320 mm ≈ 12.60 in · 416 mm ≈ 16.38 in.

Fourteen, 20, 28 and 35 mm are approximately 0.55, 0.79, 1.10 and 1.38 inches. Always mark and drill from the millimeter specification or the actual hardware.

REPLACEMENT PROJECTS

Let the existing holes lead.

When the cabinet fronts will remain, the first decision is compatibility—not proportion. Remove one piece and measure the actual holes before selecting a replacement.

FOUR-STEP PATH

Measure the cabinet, then choose the object.

Complete the entire sequence on one representative door or drawer before ordering the room.

Do not rely on the old product name, the overall length or a rounded inch description.

  1. 01Remove one existing pull
  2. 02Measure hole center to center
  3. 03Match C-C exactly
  4. 04Verify coverage and clearance

STEP 01 · RECORD

Measure more than once.

Remove one existing pull without enlarging the holes. Measure from center to center with a rigid metric ruler or caliper. If the result falls between listed sizes, stop: do not pull the new hardware into alignment or assume the cabinetry was drilled to a standard.

Record the hole diameter, front thickness and any visible shadow, indentation or finish change beneath the old bases.

STEP 02 · COMPARE

Fit can be correct while coverage is not.

A matching C-C size can reuse the holes, but a shorter overall length or smaller base may reveal marks left by the previous hardware. Compare the new overall length and base footprint with the old piece and the cabinet surface.

Confirm projection and end clearance at inside corners, adjacent fronts, walls and appliances before ordering multiples.

NEW CABINETRY

Start with use, then refine the proportion.

With undrilled fronts, scale can be chosen around the cabinet architecture. The correct answer is a coordinated elevation that feels comfortable in the hand and remains practical at every opening.

PLACEMENT STUDIES

Three fronts. Three different decisions.

These diagrams show common starting relationships—not universal drilling positions. Rail width, reveal lines, appliance clearance and reach can change the final location.

Mock up one full elevation at actual size and have the cabinet installer approve every hole center.

Examples of cabinet pull placement on a Shaker door, stacked drawers and a tall pantry door SHAKER DOOR STACKED DRAWERS TALL DOOR

PROPORTION

The one-third rule is a reference, not a requirement.

A pull near one-third of the drawer width can be a useful first comparison, but it should not override the product's overall length, the surrounding fronts or how the piece feels in use. A quieter room may use repeated medium sizes; a more architectural room may use deliberately longer hardware.

Judge the full elevation rather than choosing every front in isolation.

DOORS & DRAWERS

Coordinate function without forcing sameness.

Knobs and T-Bars keep smaller doors and drawers visually light. Two-hole cabinet pulls provide a broader grip for everyday drawers and doors. A single longer pull often gives a wide drawer a clean one-handed action; two smaller pieces can work when their spacing is deliberately planned.

Repeated sightlines and consistent hand positions matter more than using one identical size everywhere.

TALL & WIDE FRONTS

Long hardware needs more than visual approval.

Long pulls can create a strong vertical line on pantry, wardrobe and tall furniture doors, or a deliberate horizontal line on selected wide drawers. Confirm door swing, corner conditions, user reach, leverage and base spacing.

Do not assume a long cabinet pull is suitable for an integrated appliance. Appliance panels have separate manufacturer, load and clearance requirements.

CHOOSE BY APPLICATION

A hardware hierarchy for the room.

Use the object type to solve the opening first. Then use size and finish to control rhythm, emphasis and continuity.

ONE-HOLE HARDWARE

Knobs and T-Bars for compact decisions.

Consider knobs or T-Bars on smaller doors, narrow drawers, furniture fronts and locations where a two-hole pull would feel crowded. Their single fixing point makes placement especially visible, so align the center carefully with rails, stiles and neighboring pieces.

Check visible width, projection and base diameter on the exact product page.

TWO-HOLE CABINET PULLS

The flexible working scale.

Standard cabinet pulls suit a wide range of doors and drawers. Select a C-C size that fits replacement holes or supports the new elevation, then compare total length and projection. Within one design family, using a limited set of sizes usually creates a more considered result than assigning a different size to every front.

LONG PULLS

Use length as architecture.

Current OBJECT & TONE long pulls use 320 or 416 mm C-C, depending on the collection. They are designed for tall cabinet, pantry and furniture doors. Confirm the entire product specification and installation condition before using them elsewhere.

For heavy or integrated appliance panels, follow the appliance and panel manufacturer's hardware requirements and use only hardware confirmed for that application.

ROOM-WIDE RHYTHM

Repeat relationships, not just numbers.

A coherent schedule can pair one-hole hardware on smaller fronts, cabinet pulls on primary drawers and long pulls on selected tall doors. Keep finish, collection language, alignment and grip height intentional across the room.

Print or export the schedule with product name, finish, C-C size, quantity and cabinet location before ordering.

PLACEMENT

Set a datum the eye can follow.

Good placement connects the hardware to the cabinet construction and to the movement of the hand. Common conventions are useful only after the actual front has been measured.

SHAKER & FRAME-AND-PANEL

Work with the rails and stiles.

For doors, a common starting point places the knob or pull on the stile opposite the hinges, near the rail intersection. Decide whether the hardware centerline, base or end should align with the rail, then repeat that rule across the elevation.

Make sure every base sits fully on solid material and does not bridge the recessed panel or decorative profile.

SLAB FRONTS

Use edges and reveals as references.

With no frame detail to guide the eye, establish consistent offsets from door and drawer edges. Centering a drawer pull is common, but an aligned offset can be equally resolved when it supports the overall design.

Check the view with doors closed and the grip with them open before final marking.

CLEARANCE

Draw the movement, not only the front.

Open adjacent doors and drawers through their full travel. Check inside corners, fillers, walls, trim, countertops, overhangs, appliance handles and gaskets. Confirm that fingers can wrap around the hardware without contacting the cabinet face or a neighboring object.

Projection and overall length—not C-C alone—control these conditions.

PAIRED FRONTS

Symmetry needs a real gap.

On paired doors, measure each front and the reveal between them. Mock up both pieces together to confirm the visual gap and hand clearance. For stacked drawers, compare all centerlines as one composition and account for different drawer heights.

Do not copy a mark from one front until cabinet dimensions and reveals are confirmed consistent.

BEFORE DRILLING

Turn the specification into a controlled installation.

Finished cabinetry is not the place to discover that a rounded conversion, copied mark or standard screw assumption was wrong.

FULL-SCALE MOCK-UP

See the hardware at one-to-one scale.

Use the actual hardware whenever possible. Otherwise, cut a paper strip to the published overall length and mark the exact C-C holes. Apply it with a surface-safe, low-tack method only after confirming compatibility with the cabinet finish.

Review the room from normal standing distance, then test the hand position at each cabinet type.

PANEL & SCREW CHECK

Measure the complete mounting thickness.

Standard 25 mm mounting screws are included for typical single-panel cabinet doors and drawer fronts. Applied panels, double fronts and unusual thicknesses may require a different screw length.

The installer should confirm adequate thread engagement without bottoming out, protruding improperly or damaging the hardware or cabinet face.

PRINTABLE PRE-DRILL CHECKLIST

Six checks before the first permanent hole.

  1. Product, finish, quantity and variant match the approved hardware schedule.
  2. C-C, overall length, projection and base footprint are confirmed from the exact product.
  3. Every front, reveal, rail, stile and panel thickness has been measured.
  4. Door swing, drawer travel, corners, walls, trim and appliance clearances have been tested.
  5. A full-scale mock-up or installation jig has been checked on each cabinet type.
  6. The installer has approved the reference line, drill setup, screw length and first location.

Print this page or copy the checklist into the project installation packet. Reconfirm after the first piece is mounted and before drilling the remainder.

FINAL SIGN-OFF

The installer owns the final hole location.

Cabinet construction, finishes and concealed conditions vary. OBJECT & TONE provides product dimensions and general guidance; the professional responsible for the cabinetry should approve the drilling method and final location.

Test on comparable scrap material where practical, support the reverse face and never force misaligned hardware into place.

CARE & INSTALLATION GUIDE

GLOSSARY

The terms to put on every hardware schedule.

Consistent language keeps the designer, homeowner, cabinetmaker and installer working from the same information.

HARDWARE TERMS

C-C, overall length, projection and base.

Center-to-center (C-C): distance between mounting-hole centers. Overall length: full end-to-end length. Projection: distance from cabinet face to the furthest point. Base footprint: visible contact area at the mounting point. Diameter or width: visible size of a knob or one-hole T-Bar.

CABINET TERMS

Front, rail, stile, reveal and panel thickness.

Front: visible door or drawer face. Rail: horizontal frame member. Stile: vertical frame member. Reveal: visible gap or offset between fronts. Panel thickness: total material depth at the screw location, including applied or double panels.

SIZE & PLACEMENT QUESTIONS

Direct answers before you order or drill.

These answers are written for project decisions. The exact product page and the cabinet professional's final review remain controlling.

MEASUREMENT What does center-to-center mean on a cabinet pull?

Center-to-center, abbreviated C-C, is the straight-line distance from the center of one mounting hole to the center of the other. It determines whether a two-hole pull fits existing holes. It is not the overall length of the pull.

REPLACEMENT How do I measure an existing cabinet pull for replacement?

Remove one pull and measure directly between the centers of the two holes with a metric ruler or caliper. Match that C-C dimension exactly, then compare overall length, base footprint and projection so the new pull covers previous marks and clears adjacent surfaces.

CONVERSION Can I replace a 5-inch pull with a 128 mm pull?

Not without measuring the actual holes. Five inches equals 127 mm, while 128 mm is about 5.04 inches. A one-millimeter difference can prevent correct installation. Measure center to center and order the exact dimension; do not force the screws into misaligned holes.

NEW CABINETRY What size pull should I use on a 30-inch drawer?

There is no single required size. As a starting study, compare 192 and 224 mm C-C pulls at full scale; a 320 mm long pull may suit a deliberately architectural design if its overall length, grip and clearances work. Review the complete drawer elevation and actual hardware before drilling.

DESIGN Should every cabinet pull be the same size?

No. A limited, coordinated size system is usually more useful than strict sameness. Smaller fronts can use knobs, T-Bars or shorter pulls; primary drawers can use cabinet pulls; selected tall doors can use long pulls. Repeat alignment, collection language and finish so the room still reads as one composition.

PLACEMENT Where should pulls go on Shaker cabinet doors?

A common starting point is on the stile opposite the hinges near the rail intersection. The exact center should account for rail and stile width, the hardware base, the recessed panel and neighboring fronts. Mock up one upper and one lower door, then have the installer approve the repeated reference.

DESIGN Can I mix knobs and pulls in the same kitchen?

Yes. Knobs or T-Bars can keep small doors and drawers light, while pulls provide a broader grip on frequently used drawers and doors. Keep the finish, collection relationship, placement logic and sightlines consistent across the room.

APPLICATION Can an OBJECT & TONE long pull be used on an appliance panel?

Do not assume so. Current long pulls are presented for tall cabinet, pantry and furniture doors. Integrated appliances introduce separate load, mounting and clearance requirements. Follow the appliance and panel manufacturer's specifications and use only hardware expressly confirmed for that application.

INSTALLATION Should I drill the cabinets before the hardware arrives?

No. Confirm the exact product and variant, then use the actual hardware or an installer-approved exact template before drilling finished fronts. Product names, rounded inch conversions and generic online templates are not enough to establish final hole locations.

MOUNTING How do I know whether the included screws will fit my cabinet?

Measure the total panel thickness at the mounting point, including applied or double fronts. Standard 25 mm screws are included for typical single-panel doors and drawer fronts. The installer should verify adequate thread engagement without bottoming out or damaging the cabinet or hardware.